San Cristobal de Las Casas

General Information

San Cristóbal de Las Casas is a colonial town of cobblestone streets and narrow sidewalks, of graceful arcades and open plazas. It lies in a lush valley nearly 7,000 ft. high. The city is surrounded by mountains offering a jaw-dropping view in all directions. The city owes part of its name to the 16th-century cleric Fray Bartolomé de las Casas, who was the town's first bishop and spent the rest of his life waging a political campaign to protect the indigenous peoples of the Americas.

Surrounding the city are many villages of Mayan-speaking Indians whose language, dress, and customs, making this area one of the most fascinating in Mexico. San Cristóbal de Las Casas is the principal market town for these Indians, and their point of contact with the outside world. Most of them trek down from the surrounding mountains to sell goods and run errands; some even live in San Cristóbal de Las Casas.

Probably the most visible among the local indigenous groups are the Chamula. The men wear baggy thigh-length trousers and white or black sarapes, while the women wear blue rebozos, gathered white blouses with embroidered trim, and black wool wraparound skirts.

Another local Indian group is the Zinacantecan, whose men dress in light-pink overshirts with colorful trim and tassels and, sometimes, short pants. Hat ribbons (now a rare sight) are tied on married men, while ribbons dangle loosely from the hats of bachelors and community leaders. Zinacantecan women wear beautiful, brightly colored woven shawls and black wool skirts. You may also see Tenejapa men clad in knee-length black tunics and flat straw hats, and Tenejapa women dressed in beautiful reddish and rust-colored huipiles (blouses). Women of all groups go barefoot, while men wear handmade sandals or cowboy boots.

Several Indian villages lie within reach of San Cristóbal by road: Chamula, with its weavers and highly unorthodox church; Zinacantán, whose residents practice their own syncretic religion; Tenejapa, San Andrés, and Magdalena, known for brocaded textiles; Amatenango del Valle, a town of potters; and Aguacatenango, known for embroidery. Most of these "villages" consist of little more than a church and the municipal government building, with homes scattered for miles around and a general gathering only for church and market days (usually Sun).

Although the influx of outsiders is nothing new, and in the last 20 years has been increasing, it hasn't created in most Indians a desire to adopt mainstream customs and dress. It's interesting to note that the communities closest to San Cristóbal de Las Casas are the most resistant to change. The greatest threat to the cultures in this area comes not from tourism but from the action of large market forces, population pressures, environmental damage, and poverty. The Indians aren't interested in acting or looking like the foreigners they see. They may steal glances or even stare at tourists, but mainly they pay little attention to outsiders, except as potential buyers for handicrafts.

Other local lingo you should know about includes "Jovel", San Cristóbal's original name, used often by businesses, and "Coleto", meaning someone or something from San Cristóbal. You'll see signs for tamales coletos, coleto bread, and coleto breakfast.
There is even a Tour Bus with the name "Coleto".

There is so much to see and do here that you better allow at least 5 days. The beauty, the weather, the people, the surrounding area is all so incredible that you have to go there to see for your self.



And don't get me started about all the waterfalls, (Cascadas) that are in Chiapas. There are so many and all amazing. You have to see them to appreciate them. So by all means, do go and see!! Then you will know what I mean. This is such a fantastic area of Mexico.





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